BY MAISIE ADAMS
15 OCT, 2024
As fashion month draws to a close, we look back at the street styles showcased at Paris Fashion Week to get an off-the-runway look into what’s coming our way in Spring 2025. These collections all prioritise maximalism—layers on layers on layers. Statement necklaces, double handbags, and everything else, feathered or embroidered, were showcased across Paris at the end of September. Whilst the temperature dropped in the Parisian streets, so did the Miu Miu 2025 spring collection - and the timing could not be more perfect. The collection, haphazardly styled by Lotta Volkova, takes the layering look to a whole new level. With jumpers on top of tank tops and vests, the limit to layers does not exist for Miu Miu or its attendees.
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Before the show began, artist Goshka Macuga screened a film touching on the ideas of misinformation. This collaboration between the Polish artist and Miu Miu aimed to embrace the beautiful strangeness of both fashion and art. Designer Miuccia Prada noted that this was an embarkment to examine ‘the brand’s cultural dialogues with groundbreaking women artists and filmmakers’.
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Atop the multiple layers of clothing were yet more layers in the form of accessories. Bug-eyed sunglasses combined with a plethora of belts proved that one accessory is far from enough. Zoi Lerma and other attendees opted for long socks and gloves to stay warm as the colder months are approaching. These items are essential staples, along with our favourite from the runway collection, the leg warmer. It is the ideal accessory to complement skirts for a cosy yet stylish look this winter.
Courtesy of @jasmins.kamera
The show was set in an apocalyptic newspaper factory, fitting for the explosion of layers and colour we saw on the runway. From 1970’s geometric prints to 1920’s wide-cut flapper dresses - no decade was left out. The Miu Miu collection was full of character, colour and celebrity appearances, with Willem Dafoe and Hilary Swank taking to the runway. With earth-toned suede bags contrasted with jackets of bright blue, spring will truly be the season where anything goes. Especially keep an eye out for floral prints.
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For Stella McCartney, sustainability and animal rights have been at the forefront of their shows for years, and the avian motif of Paris Fashion Week was an ideal opportunity to demonstrate this. Attendees took their seats but not before being given newspapers titled ‘About Fucking Time’ detailing the conscious approach that McCartney takes towards her fashion collections, but some already got the memo.
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As Prince’s ‘When Doves Cry’ played, models debuted Mcartney’s new spring collection inspired by birds. The collection included boxy trenchcoats, vegan duffel bags in all sizes and 80s-inspired heels. With the rise of the oversized, boxy jacket, Stella does not forget to add that hint of sexy femininity - slouchy trousers are paired with barely-there lingerie for the perfect dressed-up look.
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The emphasis on sustainability was flawless throughout. In backstage interviews, McCartney explains the beauty of birds, yet we should take inspiration from them rather than destroy their beauty for our fashion wants. The incoming rise of furs, leather bags and shoes means we should be more conscious when shopping for the latest trends. Check local charity stores before buying new, and research the ethics of brands before you buy. As quoted by Helen Mirren at the opening of McCartney’s show, ‘A world where there are only planes in the sky, and no song in the trees, will never make the heart soar’.
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Returning to the Chanel landmark Grand Palais after four years away, this collection took inspiration from the world above. Motifs of flight and lightness were lingering throughout the show. Peter Pan's collars on aviator jackets and flight suits embodied the ideas of flight, a tribute to women who have freed themselves from the gaze of society. Outside the show, the timeless elegance of Chanel warmed the streets of Paris with oversized coats and sleek monochromatic looks paired with chunky gold accessories.
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But the delicacy of this show shone through with its use of chiffon capes and feather details. Embroidered dresses and collars, flowing gowns and feathered chiffon skirts gave this show the soft femininity of a Chanel girl, additionally captured outside the show by attendees. The brand stuck to its signature throughout, with tween co-ords and a timeless colour palette.
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The maximalism that is foreshadowed for the coming spring does not end here. Models walked across signature Louis Vuitton trunks, which created the runway, as attendees were transported to the Renaissance. The inspiration from the runway was not amiss outside the show either. Attendees embraced the asymmetry of this collection with ruffled white skirts paired with the classic LV iconography. Oversized necklaces and double handbags gave the maximal effect we shall see this spring.
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In his show notes, artistic director Nicola Ghesquiere questioned how to reconcile two antagonists, softness and power. To answer his question, however, the collection, its models and the show’s attendees proved that there is power in softness. Women do not have to choose between feminine softness and power, for these women master both.
Courtesy of @jasmins.kamera
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