BY IOAN LEWIS
OCT 14, 2024
Embroiled in an identity issue during the 2010s and flirting with the idea of mediocrity, Boss has since risen from the ashes. Their appearance in Milan was a clear statement of intent to continue on their path of retribution. In a much-needed and welcomed switch up, Boss has emphasised formality in recent years and continued that very formula of success on the cobbled streets of the Italian capital. Perhaps in the realisation that their biggest triumphs reside in the past, Boss brought a nostalgic sexy to the forefront. A noir fanatic's dream took centre stage as they presented the perfect duo of shirt, tie and leather jacket that all but screamed for a cigarette in the mouth. Disproving any one-trick pony accusations, they also presented a contrastingly bright, all-white, low-cut suit in an act of variety—a new age of Boss beckons.
Courtesy of @jasmins.kamera
Ferragamo came to prove that you’ll never need to look to another designer because they can dress you for any occasion. Known for their shoes and leather, their showing in Milan was a demonstration that they could stick to their roots but also effortlessly offer so much more. Monochromatic looks were evidently on the menu, with a mindful eye on the impending winter months. Onlookers were spoilt as a red trench embraced the warm wind to reveal a flowing dress that was almost overshadowed by immensely fury heels, whilst on the other end of the spectrum, a blazer painted in autumn and draped with luxurious cuffs showed equal parts style and functionality. Leather never left the mind, though, as a brilliant leather dress gave lessons in formality and flair as the sentiment of summer also shone in a one-two combination of an almost toga-like dress and matching blue bag.
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Glenn Martens has worked nothing short of miracles since taking over the role of Creative Director at Diesel. Continuing the trend of expectational Belgian creative minds, Martens thrust Diesel back to relevancy by creating a new brand identifier and reviving an old one. Diesel’s shiny new identifier was everywhere at Milan Fashion Week as their metal ‘D’ logo adorned many pieces to the effect of either subtlety or boldness as it varied from a tiny clasp to a centrepiece. Denim was the Diesel identity during the brand’s rise up the mountain. Their ingenuity was on overdrive, and the looks that graced Milan were signs of a return to form. A rusty brown denim dress complimented with an equally rusty ‘D’ logo blessed the streets as one of the stand-out pieces. Surprisingly, and perhaps controversially, slim-fit jeans also made an appearance in the Summer limelight. Love them or hate them, it was a bold statement of intent.
Courtesy of @jasmins.kamera
Gucci seemingly loves a vintage nod, or at least Sabato de Sarno certainly does. Since joining the powerhouse fashion house in 2023, Sarno has practically built a shrine to 1970s fashion, and not a complaint has been or should be lodged. The main feature of Sarno’s reign was again present in Italy as repeating patterns painted jackets, reminiscent of their famous monogram that dominated the 2010s, but a tasteful artistic change up. The label’s ‘70s inclination was perfectly surmised through one look. A cream leather trench extended beyond the short, knitted, khaki dress and extended to the top of bright orange chunky hedge heels; Twiggy perfection. Gucci also shined through their gem-endowed jacket, which felt like they’d raided Swarovski, along with a stunning almost all-black look, complimented by a scarf fit for a queen, that will have all the corporate girlies losing their minds.
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Prada’s popularity seems to ebb and flow between their masterfully subtle or outrageously visual designs. There is no clearer example of this than when comparing
their uber-popular print shirts of the late 2010s with the outfits that adorned the streets of Milan this Summer. Indeed, the focus has once again shifted to the whispering greatness of Prada’s subtlety. Calming neutral colours danced in the streets of Milan in a fantastic display of artful tailoring of simple shirts and skirts that spoke themselves much louder than expected. An exhibition in shape took place, noted mainly by a flowing black jacket with a high collar that corseted at the top only to gracefully extend outwards as it lowered. There was also a clear French influence, tipping the buret to the nation of simple fashion, as a boxy mini dress topped with the aforementioned hat.
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Always one for interesting silhouettes and waterfalls of creative output, Sportmax once again proved that they’re deserving of standing next to the giants of the industry. The relatively young brand has harnessed the lessons taught to them through their collaboration with Jean-Charles de Castlebajac and combined it with their shadowy interpretation of femininity that they have developed throughout the years. Shadowy is an understatement as they rolled out mouthwatering black looks. Twin ‘fits of figure-hugging dresses accompanied by dark sunglasses and felt fedoras saw the Spanish Mestiza duo dressed in preparation for the funeral of their critics. Ever the revolutionaries, these dresses were partnered with a brilliantly inventive shirt and skirt combination that played with proportion, fit and emphasis with a genius balance of intrigue and casual.
Courtesy of @jasmins.kamera
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