BY IOAN LEWIS
SEPT 20, 2024
Nestled within the foundations of a railway, an idyllic location for the modern fashion show, drinks and sun poured into the arena. The excitement was palpable as the photographers took their place at the end of the catwalk in another brilliant event from the equally brilliant Martin Kurina and Emkai Model Agency. This is yet another testament to Emkai, once again proving that there isn’t a solely defining face or feature in fashion without losing a single tantalising drop of what makes a show fun and exciting.
The show began as a streak of blue covered the catwalk, leaving the attending crowd in awe of the possibility of limitless ingenuity and scowling at their cupboard of unworn jeans as Laura Taylor arrived. Laura Gromova has valiantly reached this point despite being deaf, but she doesn’t want to be defined by that, nor should she. Gromova will instead be defined by her commitment to saving the environment through ethical fashion, represented by a dumbfounding level of creativity on the runway. Laura Tailor’s collection was comprised entirely of recycled denim, but that didn’t detract from the intricacies of each piece; it further emphasised them. The showing was highlighted by corsets and dresses that utilised different colours and washes of denim to define the panels and the bodies of the wearer. Gromova's show was pinnacled with an injection of pure fun, with a skirt compiled completely from back pockets, defeating the need for snakeskin as a requirement for a scaly effect. A genuinely influential message conveyed through brilliant design.
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Boldly announcing their presence soon after, in glistening and kaleidoscopic chainmail, was Armoured Goddess. Created with meticulous care and patience, a link connecting to link and hoop connecting to hoop spawned fantastical fantasy-inspiring pieces of flowing armour. Designer Rasheeda Smart forged a dual message of empowerment into her creations. Smart’s designs offer a means of stunning protection and a source of courage reflective of her relationship with anxiety. Armoured Goddess also means to change a negative narrative. Inspired by the uplifting example of the movie ‘Black Panther’ and guided by the stories of her ancestors, Smart changed the oppressive historical connotations of chains to the Black community into one of strength and pride and did so with rousing elegance.
Courtesy of @xoyadoesitall
The influence of the youth visionaries was also clearly displayed in London. Bridget Calthrop, a recent fashion knitwear graduate from Nottingham Trent University, set the standard for what the designers of tomorrow are bringing to the table. Calthrop, initially weary of entering the industry and having never previously knitted, enrolled in the course, succumbing to her desire to create, and the industry was better off for it. A feast of textures and patterns ensued, including a perpetually consuming frilled turtleneck and a strikingly sophisticated knit trench. Perhaps best of all was the presentation of a draped knit newspaper cloak, accompanied by also mouthwateringly mountainous trousers lathered in wool that took form to detract from current newsreel fear-mongering to create a breathtaking outfit. Cathrop admitted that she has more to learn, but her designs' complexity and composition question the validity of that statement.
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Two more graduates shattered the runway as CPA, comprised of the pairing of Charlotte Anderson and Priscilla Fung, took centre stage. The newly-grads from the London College of Fashion came together during their final year and have formed a perfectly balanced partnership. CPA’s collection took the initiative to turn unpleasant into beautiful, figuratively and literally. Inspired by a relative’s war experience, they transfigured something shocking into stunning whilst also trying and succeeding in making camo cool again. The military-derived collection demonstrated masterful use of draping that brought perceived movement and elements of life to the pieces. The designs were cut with proportions and fit balancing ideally on the knife’s edge of textbook and intriguing, and the jackets were topped off with an ingenious reimagining of camouflage that provided subtle flare. Anderson and Fung hope to bring the collection into production soon, and everyone’s wallets will let out a collective sigh.
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Shades of Dapper Dan and Basquiat complimented the setting city sun when TP4 Style’s walking paintings, worthy of being on show in the Tate Modern, made their way down the runway. Designer Temitope Ogunseitan understands the meaning of roots. Being a Nigerian native Ogunseitan, he makes a point of sourcing most of his fabric from Nigeria, and the little he can’t, he finds through recycling. TP4’s Nigerian connection was evident as the pieces came to life. Drawing from the bright colours of traditional Nigerian clothing, the collection bottled up the liveliness and energy of the culture in spectacular fashion through two radiant pieces that told a distinctly Nigerian story as they strutted down the catwalk. Ogunseitan also demonstrated his tailoring chops, combining his viciously vibrant style with heavy suit aesthetics that would undoubtedly have some longing for the days of ‘70s American disco. TP4 shows the value of a solid connection to heritage, utilising it twofold to output a desirable balance of energetic and functional creations.
Courtesy of @xoyadoesitall
Ultimately, the show was another resounding success for Kurina and the team at Emkai. Once again, they championed diversity and spotlighted the blinding brightness of the industry's emerging talent.
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